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When assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.