Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
